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Eat Special Issue

South Baltimore

Photo: Frank Klein, License: N/A, Created: 2011:02:14 20:04:00

Frank Klein

Barracudas: A Locust Point Tavern

Photo: Michael Northrup, License: N/A, Created: 2011:02:15 15:03:05

Michael Northrup

Mother’s Federal Hill Grille

Photo: Frank Klein, License: N/A, Created: 2011:02:13 19:51:13

Frank Klein



$ = Inexpensive; “entrees” barely crack $10.
$$ = Entrees in the $10-$20 range, other than a few specials or the crab cakes.
$$$ Entrees $20 and up.
BYOB = The restaurant has no liquor license but allows you to bring your own booze. You may have heard of this.
P = On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
T = Valet parking (for most places, this is weekends-only).
Out = Outdoor dining in season. Note: It could be a lovely deck, but it may be just a couple of tables on the sidewalk.
10pm = Serves food after 10 p.m. Many local restaurants will serve until 11 p.m. on weekends, but spots bearing this icon go further somehow.
B = Breakfast.
L = Lunch.
D = Dinner.
Br = Brunch on weekends.
Vg = Specializes in vegetarian/vegan friendliness. Almost all restaurants these days offer vegetarian options, and when asked by someone compiling a dining guide, many restaurants say that they can accommodate vegans on request, but this icon indicates vegetarian/vegan friendliness as a primary mission.
Rsv = Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
Del = Delivery to a limited area, though many restaurants that don’t do phone-order delivery use web-based services such as


1230 E. Fort Ave., (410) 685-2832,

$$ L D Br

This small Locust Point neighborhood spot serves pubby standards with a few beachy twists (jerk chicken salad) and some serious local flavor (coddies).


1444 Light St., (443) 869-6871,

$ Vg D Rsv

Boasting a fine wine list and a broad range of hot and cold small plates, Centro Tapas may be the most authentic tapas joint in town. Go for crunchy pickled guindilla peppers, house-fried marcona almonds, yucca fries, and traditional tortilla.


1421 Lawrence St., (410) 685-7675,

$$ BYOB P Out L D

Baltimore’s newest place for ‘cue offers vinegary Carolina-style pulled pork, ribs, and chicken, as well as Baltimore favorites pit beef and ham. Skip fries for tangy collards, hush puppies, and smoky baked beans.


1222 Hull St., (410) 727-7476,

$$ L D Br Rsv

Hull Street Blues still lays out a beautiful spread every Sunday for its famous brunch, one of the best in Baltimore. The lunch menu sports familiar salad, sandwich, and pasta options, while the dinner menu reaches a bit higher.


1325 Key Highway, (410) 837-9903,

$$ Out D Br

This longtime favorite for Sunday brunch, mind-obliteration, and warm-weather flirting has made admirable attempts to serious-up its Cuban cuisine. Starters—flash-fried cubes of pork tenderloin, black bean soup—work best. Lunch served on Fridays.


1200 Steuart St., (443) 438-3139,

$$ P Out L D Br

Miguel’s spicy, colorful food nods to authentic Mexican fare. Forgo entrees for ample and well-executed small plates such as Baja tacos, empanadas, and flautas with dusky mole sauce.


2600 Insulator Drive, (410) 347-4123,

$$ P Out 10pm L D Br

Picture-perfect warm-weather ambiance, with decks looking out over the Middle Branch and a Margaritaville groove inside and out. As you might imagine, the specialty is seafood.


1401 E. Clement St., (410) 962-1212,

$$$ Out d Rsv

An offshoot of uptown’s Sotto Sopra, this townhouse restaurant offers sophisticated decor and a focused menu of trattoria classics—osso buco, vigorous pastas, and whip-smart specials.


838 E. Fort Ave., (410) 727-7067,

$ P B L Br

The real deal. Housed in a handsome rowhouse on the border between two blue-collar-but-listing-upscale neighborhoods, Rallo’s has been dishing out hearty, inexpensive fare for more than 60 years. The service is swift and solicitous, the menu both vast and very regional (try the cod cakes).


1843 Light St., (410) 244-5667,

$$ Out L D Br

Roadhouse-y Rub introduced Baltimoreans to Texas barbecue, which favors rubs and slowww cooking over sauces. The house specialty is the brisket, pretty in pink smoked rings, and very tender. Contrived but fun.


921 E. Fort Ave., (410) 244-6166,

$$$ P Out L D Br Rsv

The New American menu at the Wine Market consistently offers interesting preparations, such as salt-roasted veal loin or sake-marinated slow-roasted black cod, and the a la carte brunch shouldn’t be overlooked.

Eat 2011 Contents
  • Pleased? Eat: City Paper's Annual Dining Guide | 3/2/2011
  • Federal Hill ABBEY BURGER BISTRO 1041 Marshall St., (443) 453-9698, $$ 10pm L D A bar devoted to gourmet burgers, not French fare. And we’re grateful, because who wouldn’t savor local Roseda beef topped with a drippy fried egg (or foie gra | 3/2/2011
  • South Baltimore BARRACUDAS: A LOCUST POINT TAVERN 1230 E. Fort Ave., (410) 685-2832, $$ L D Br This small Locust Point neighborhood spot serves pubby standards with a few beachy twists (jerk chicken salad) and some serious local flavor (coddies). | 3/2/2011
  • Canton/Highlandtown ACROPOLIS 4714-4718 Eastern Ave., (410) 675-3384, $$ L D There’s hearty and wholesome fare for Olympian appetites at this casual and cavernous Greektown mainstay. Lamb, seafood, and crab cakes are the house specialties, and al | 3/2/2011
  • Fells Point ALE MARY’S 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, $$ Out 10pm L D Br You can get tater tots as an appetizer or alongside any of the well-crafted sandwiches in various states of loaded-ness. The menu ranges from bar food standards to more ambi | 3/2/2011
  • Little Italy ALDO’S 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, $$$ Vg d Rsv This Little Italy gem assembles choice ingredients in flawless preparations, nimbly negotiating the terrain between respectfulness for old-world tradition and mindfulness of contem | 3/2/2011
  • Harbor East BAGBY PIZZA CO. 1006 Fleet St., (410) 605-0444, $$ Out L D Bagby is the pizza place you wish was in your own neighborhood. Pie crusts are cracker thin, pastas and salads are homemade and generous, and service aims to please. CHARL | 3/2/2011
  • Downtown ALEWIFE 21 N. Eutaw, (410) 545-5112, $$ L D Alewife’s biggest draw may be its 40 beer taps, but the newest pub to fill the space across from the Hippodrome offers decent gourmet sandwiches and entrees too. Look for various in-ho | 3/2/2011
  • Mount Vernon/Bolton Hill/Station North ABACROMBIE FINE FOODS AND ACCOMMODATIONS 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, $$$ D B Rsv This basement spot has long held a culinary reputation that dwarfs its intimate size. It’s current menu of care-taken upscale comfort foods uphold | 3/2/2011
  • Charles Village/Waverly ALIZÉE 4 W. University Pkwy, (443) 449-6200, $$$ P Vg B L D Br Alizée has gone from fusion to high-concept comfort food. The menu changes seasonally, but look for bistro-inspired fare—roasted chicken, lamb confit, rabbit—all done | 3/2/2011
  • Roland Park/Mount Washington ALONSO’S 415 W. Cold Spring Lane, (410) 235-3433, $$ L D There’s been an upscale revamping and the pizzas have been gussied up. The immense burgers, though, are still here. BANSKY’S Cafe Lake Falls Village, 6080 Falls Road, (410) 377 | 3/2/2011
  • Hampden/Remington 13.5 WINE BAR 1117 W. 36th St., (410) 889–1064, $$ Out 10pm D The Avenue gets a very well done wine list, along with a very well-turned-out menu of gourmet nibbles, pizzas, and entrees. ALCHEMY 1011 W. 36th St., (410) 366-1163, a | 3/2/2011
  • Belvedere Square ATWATER’S Belvedere Square Market 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396 (and various other locations); $ P Out L D It sells home-style breads and tasty sandwiches at its multiple locations (and the cream puffs at the Belvedere Square ba | 3/2/2011
  • Hamilton BIG BAD WOLF’S HOUSE OF BARBECUE 5713 Harford Road, (410) 444-6422 $$ Out L D Hamilton carry-out joint dispenses tender animal parts in classic regional sauces—Kansas City sweet and spicy, Carolina mustard or vinegar, and Texas pit style, our favor | 3/2/2011
  • County ANDY NELSON’S BARBEQUE 11011 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, $$ P Out L D Everything is slow-smoked over hickory wood. Ribs are a must-eat, the pulled-pork sandwich is orgasmic, and all the homemade sides are fantastic. W | 3/2/2011
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