Eat Special Issue
Harbor East
Charleston, Ra Sushi, Ten Ten, and more
Christopher Meyers
Manchurian Rice Co.
Jefferson Jackson Stelle
Wit & Wisdom
Published: March 7, 2012
Bagby Pizza Co.
1006 Fleet St., (410) 605-0444, bagbypizza.com
$$, L, D, Out
Bagby is the pizza place you wish was in your own neighborhood. Pie crusts are cracker thin, pastas and salads are homemade and generous, and service aims to please.
Charleston
1000 Lancaster St., (410) 332-7373, charlestonrestaurant.com
$$$, D, R, Out
Cindy Wolf’s home-skillet goes posh via small-plates-ish “improvisational dining,” arranged into general unordered courses. Choose well, and you’ll be rewarded with rich, saturated, strong flavors, with enough flamboyance to hold your attention.
CHAZZ: A BRONX ORIGINAL
1415 Aliceanna St., (410) 522-5511, chazzbronxoriginal.com
$$, L, D
Yes, this newish place bears the name of (and frequent visits from) actor Chazz Palminteri, and while there’s a certain stage-iness to its décor, the kitchen knows what it’s about when it comes to coal-fired pizza and exemplary Italian-American faves.
Chiu’s Sushi
608 S. Exeter St., (410) 752-9666, chiussushi.com
$$, L, D, Out
With its kimono-clad servers, warm-cloth service, and soothing décor, this friendly and competent Japanese restaurant almost overcomes the ambient restrictions of its storefront location.
Cinghiale
822 Lancaster St., (410) 547-8282, cgeno.com
$$$, L, D, R, Out
From Tony Foreman and Cindy Wolf, Northern Italian fare with small smoky and cheesy things in the big, brassy wine bar (Enoteco) and bigger meatier things in the somber dining wings (Osteria). Fritto misto for everybody.
Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse and Wine Bar
720 Aliceanna St., (410) 332-1666, flemingssteakhouse.com
$$$, D, R
Most of the menu is the wine list, and most of the food is beef. The petit fillet is fine, but the best cut is the jumbo pork chop. Even veggies come in gargantuan proportions.
Grille 700 in the Waterfront
Baltimore Waterfront Marriott, 700 Aliceanna St., (410) 895-1879, grille700.com
$$$, B, L, D, Br
A menu of familiar lunch and dinner classics with the requisite crab dishes front and center.
James Joyce Irish Pub and Restaurant
616 S. President St., (410) 727-5107, thejamesjoycepub.com
$$, L, D, Br, Out
James Joyce provides the chance to score a proper pour of Guinness in Harbor East, and the Irish staples, such as fish and chips and a solid shepherd’s pie, are worth checking out.
Lebanese Taverna
719 S. President St., (410) 244-5533, lebanesetaverna.com
$$, L, D, Out
An elegant but comfortable Mediterranean restaurant with budget-friendly small plates and more ambitious entrées.
Manchurian Rice Co.
1010 Aliceanna St., (443) 438-3528
$, L, D
Cut-above Asian fast food boasting Chinese, Japanese, Thai, and Vietnamese dishes in bright, pleasant new digs.
The Oceanaire Seafood Room
801 Aliceanna St., (443) 872-0000, theoceanaire.com
$$$, D, R, v
Luxe seafood dining. Crab cakes are succulent, delicate, faintly sweet, and totally refined, and the fish is perfectly fresh and expertly cooked.
Pazo
1425 Aliceanna St., (410) 534-7296, pazorestaurant.com
$$$, D, R
Full-size entrées now grace this small-plates menu, although the tapas remain the key draw: beef tartare and seafood carpaccio are very beautiful. The soaring space still soars, and feels like a night out.
Ra Sushi
1390 Lancaster St., (410) 522-3200, rasushi.com/baltimore
$$, L, D, Out
This sleek local outpost of a national chain serves up an expansive battery of artful sushi.
Roy’s
720b Aliceanna St., (410) 659-0099, roysrestaurant.com
$$$, D
It’s a chain, it’s pricey, and the staff bellows “ALOHA!” as you walk in, but the food is very good. Half the menu changes nightly, but classic Asian dishes tend to be very good.
Talara
615 S. President St., (410) 528-9883, talarabaltimore.com
$$, L, D, Out
This restaurant transports diners to South Beach with bright colors, salsa music, and a Latin-inspired menu. Ceviche is the star here, plus a generous choice of seafood, both raw and cooked.
Ten Ten
1010 Fleet St., (443) 244-6867, bagbys1010.com
$$$, L, D, Br
A cozy bistro offering fancy comfort food: duck-fat fries, steak frites, house-made charcuterie. There’s not much exotic here, or particularly challenging, but most everything is executed with finesse and a fine palate for flavor combinations.
Vino Rosina
507 S. Exeter St., (410) 528-8600, vinorosina.com
$$, L, D, R, v, Out
Chef Sajin Renae’s inventive menu offers dishes like Zeke’s-coffee-rubbed redeye filet with kale and foie gras butter. A scary-smart wine list and personable service only add to the glow.
Wit & Wisdom
200 International Drive, (410) 576-5800, witandwisdombaltimore.com
$$$, b, l, d, br
Local faves and water views tend to spell success around here. But Michael Mina’s new contemporary restaurant in the Four Seasons isn’t your typical harborside casual spot. Coddies are reborn as feather-light salt cod fritters, and other preparations of top local ingredients are equally inventive.
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