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Eat Special Issue


Photo: Tim Hill, License: N/A, Created: 2002:01:01 02:59:32

Tim Hill


Photo: Tim Hill, License: N/A, Created: 2002:01:01 02:46:51

Tim Hill

Golden West Café


$ = Inexpensive; “entrees” barely crack $10.
$$ = Entrees in the $10-$20 range, other than a few specials or the crab cakes.
$$$ Entrees $20 and up.
BYOB = The restaurant has no liquor license but allows you to bring your own booze. You may have heard of this.
P = On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
T = Valet parking (for most places, this is weekends-only).
Out = Outdoor dining in season. Note: It could be a lovely deck, but it may be just a couple of tables on the sidewalk.
10pm = Serves food after 10 p.m. Many local restaurants will serve until 11 p.m. on weekends, but spots bearing this icon go further somehow.
B = Breakfast.
L = Lunch.
D = Dinner.
Br = Brunch on weekends.
Vg = Specializes in vegetarian/vegan friendliness. Almost all restaurants these days offer vegetarian options, and when asked by someone compiling a dining guide, many restaurants say that they can accommodate vegans on request, but this icon indicates vegetarian/vegan friendliness as a primary mission.
Rsv = Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
Del = Delivery to a limited area, though many restaurants that don’t do phone-order delivery use web-based services such as


1117 W. 36th St., (410) 889–1064,

$$ Out 10pm D

The Avenue gets a very well done wine list, along with a very well-turned-out menu of gourmet nibbles, pizzas, and entrees.


1011 W. 36th St., (410) 366-1163,

$$$ Out 10pm L D Br

Alchemy’s menu draws from all corners of the globe, including France, Asia and the American Southwest, with some very fine dishes resulting (a classic chicken liver pate, a chile rubbed pork tenderloin served with sweet potato tamales). The renovated space is lovely.


1002 W. 36th St.,(410) 243-1230,

$$ P B L D Br

Café Hon is all about home cooking done right, from chili cheese fries to unabashedly homely bread pudding. Blue plate specials like meatloaf truly are, as named, “better than mom’s.”


300 W. 30th St., (443) 869-5864,

$$ Out 10pm B L D

This homey spot boasts ace soups, cheap but good burgers, and a rotating list of old-fashioned entrées, written up daily in the familiar loopy handwriting.


3838 Roland Ave., (443) 869-3085

$$ P B L D

Although The Dizz Grandview boasts nearly the same menu as its Remington sister, the view from the 18th floor of a senior apartment building dazzles. Expect more of the burgers, platters, and wings, plus dressier entrees like a NY strip.


911 W. 36th St., (410) 889-0952,

$$$ P L D

Dogwood’s reopening in December 2009 ushered in a new menu (casual fare and more formal entrées) and a better wine list with inventive cocktails and house-infused spirits. “Local,” “sustainable,” and “community” are still buzzwords and the food still excels.


1105 W. 36th St., (410) 889-8891,

$$ 10pm B L D Br Vg

New Mexican breakfast dishes—available all day—are the West’s forte. Vegans have options here too, and not in that lame portabello-burger kind of way. Think homemade tofu chorizo in a vegan burrito, followed by a slice of vegan cake.


1031 W. 36th St., (443) 869-3429,

$$$ BYOB Out L D

The pasta bar is a little bit Hampden, a little bit Napoli, and a whole lotta frantic. Mix and match from among seven pastas and eight sauces (as well as soups, salads, and desserts).


3547 Chestnut Ave., (443) 438-7521,

$$$ Out d

Less frenzied and crowded than its 36th Street counterpart, Grano at Chestnut offers the same classic pastas only with tablecloths and table service.


908 W. 36th St., (410) 235-2326,

$$ 10pm L D

We love the tacos at this friendly Mexican spot, delish whether filled with ground beef, salty pork, shredded beef, grilled chicken, or black beans, in a hard shell or soft tortillas.


3845 Falls Road, (410) 467-1000,

$$$ 10pm L D Rsv

A neighborhood favorite returns and picks up more or less where it left off, serving exemplary pub grub faves (e.g. a juicy hamburger made from local beef on a brioche-style bun) in a bustling casual environment.


3360 Chestnut Ave., (410) 235-7887,

$$ 0 10pm D Br

Retro but not annoyingly so, cool but not overbearingly so, Rocket is a hangout with a smart menu—steak frites, veggie wimpies, and out-of-this world roasted Brussels sprouts. All this, and a contender for the world’s neatest jukebox.


1009 W. 36th St., (410) 243-0051

$$ Out L D

This small eatery serves straight-up versions of noodle dishes from Korea, Japan, Vietnam, and beyond: no fusion faux pho here.


2010 Clipper Park Road, (410) 464-8000,

$$$ Vg Out d Rsv

Spike Gjerde’s shimmering Clipper Mill fantasy of brick, glass, fire, and food, seductively exploits the fascination with sustainability, seasonabilty, and localness. The kitchen lavishes attention on good meat, poultry, seafood, and vegetables. Top notch.

Eat 2011 Contents
  • Pleased? Eat: City Paper's Annual Dining Guide | 3/2/2011
  • Federal Hill ABBEY BURGER BISTRO 1041 Marshall St., (443) 453-9698, $$ 10pm L D A bar devoted to gourmet burgers, not French fare. And we’re grateful, because who wouldn’t savor local Roseda beef topped with a drippy fried egg (or foie gra | 3/2/2011
  • South Baltimore BARRACUDAS: A LOCUST POINT TAVERN 1230 E. Fort Ave., (410) 685-2832, $$ L D Br This small Locust Point neighborhood spot serves pubby standards with a few beachy twists (jerk chicken salad) and some serious local flavor (coddies). | 3/2/2011
  • Canton/Highlandtown ACROPOLIS 4714-4718 Eastern Ave., (410) 675-3384, $$ L D There’s hearty and wholesome fare for Olympian appetites at this casual and cavernous Greektown mainstay. Lamb, seafood, and crab cakes are the house specialties, and al | 3/2/2011
  • Fells Point ALE MARY’S 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, $$ Out 10pm L D Br You can get tater tots as an appetizer or alongside any of the well-crafted sandwiches in various states of loaded-ness. The menu ranges from bar food standards to more ambi | 3/2/2011
  • Little Italy ALDO’S 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, $$$ Vg d Rsv This Little Italy gem assembles choice ingredients in flawless preparations, nimbly negotiating the terrain between respectfulness for old-world tradition and mindfulness of contem | 3/2/2011
  • Harbor East BAGBY PIZZA CO. 1006 Fleet St., (410) 605-0444, $$ Out L D Bagby is the pizza place you wish was in your own neighborhood. Pie crusts are cracker thin, pastas and salads are homemade and generous, and service aims to please. CHARL | 3/2/2011
  • Downtown ALEWIFE 21 N. Eutaw, (410) 545-5112, $$ L D Alewife’s biggest draw may be its 40 beer taps, but the newest pub to fill the space across from the Hippodrome offers decent gourmet sandwiches and entrees too. Look for various in-ho | 3/2/2011
  • Mount Vernon/Bolton Hill/Station North ABACROMBIE FINE FOODS AND ACCOMMODATIONS 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, $$$ D B Rsv This basement spot has long held a culinary reputation that dwarfs its intimate size. It’s current menu of care-taken upscale comfort foods uphold | 3/2/2011
  • Charles Village/Waverly ALIZÉE 4 W. University Pkwy, (443) 449-6200, $$$ P Vg B L D Br Alizée has gone from fusion to high-concept comfort food. The menu changes seasonally, but look for bistro-inspired fare—roasted chicken, lamb confit, rabbit—all done | 3/2/2011
  • Roland Park/Mount Washington ALONSO’S 415 W. Cold Spring Lane, (410) 235-3433, $$ L D There’s been an upscale revamping and the pizzas have been gussied up. The immense burgers, though, are still here. BANSKY’S Cafe Lake Falls Village, 6080 Falls Road, (410) 377 | 3/2/2011
  • Hampden/Remington 13.5 WINE BAR 1117 W. 36th St., (410) 889–1064, $$ Out 10pm D The Avenue gets a very well done wine list, along with a very well-turned-out menu of gourmet nibbles, pizzas, and entrees. ALCHEMY 1011 W. 36th St., (410) 366-1163, a | 3/2/2011
  • Belvedere Square ATWATER’S Belvedere Square Market 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396 (and various other locations); $ P Out L D It sells home-style breads and tasty sandwiches at its multiple locations (and the cream puffs at the Belvedere Square ba | 3/2/2011
  • Hamilton BIG BAD WOLF’S HOUSE OF BARBECUE 5713 Harford Road, (410) 444-6422 $$ Out L D Hamilton carry-out joint dispenses tender animal parts in classic regional sauces—Kansas City sweet and spicy, Carolina mustard or vinegar, and Texas pit style, our favor | 3/2/2011
  • County ANDY NELSON’S BARBEQUE 11011 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, $$ P Out L D Everything is slow-smoked over hickory wood. Ribs are a must-eat, the pulled-pork sandwich is orgasmic, and all the homemade sides are fantastic. W | 3/2/2011
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