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Eat Special Issue

County

A GUIDE TO THE ICONS

$ = Inexpensive; “entrees” barely crack $10.
$$ = Entrees in the $10-$20 range, other than a few specials or the crab cakes.
$$$ Entrees $20 and up.
BYOB = The restaurant has no liquor license but allows you to bring your own booze. You may have heard of this.
P = On-site parking, i.e. a dedicated lot or garage.
T = Valet parking (for most places, this is weekends-only).
Out = Outdoor dining in season. Note: It could be a lovely deck, but it may be just a couple of tables on the sidewalk.
10pm = Serves food after 10 p.m. Many local restaurants will serve until 11 p.m. on weekends, but spots bearing this icon go further somehow.
B = Breakfast.
L = Lunch.
D = Dinner.
Br = Brunch on weekends.
Vg = Specializes in vegetarian/vegan friendliness. Almost all restaurants these days offer vegetarian options, and when asked by someone compiling a dining guide, many restaurants say that they can accommodate vegans on request, but this icon indicates vegetarian/vegan friendliness as a primary mission.
Rsv = Reservations are suggested, particularly for weekend dining.
Del = Delivery to a limited area, though many restaurants that don’t do phone-order delivery use web-based services such as carryout.com.

ANDY NELSON’S BARBEQUE

11011 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com

$$ P Out L D

Everything is slow-smoked over hickory wood. Ribs are a must-eat, the pulled-pork sandwich is orgasmic, and all the homemade sides are fantastic. Wash it all down with some sweet tea.

AN POITIN STIL

2323 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 560-7900, thestill.net

$$ P Out 10pm L D Br

An Irish-themed restaurant featuring, besides devoutly tended Guinness, Harp, and Bass, a menu of both heavy-duty American tavern fare and such Old Sod favorites as bangers and mash, Irish stew, and shepherd’s pie.

BILL BATEMAN’S BISTRO

7800 York Road, Towson, (410) 296-2737 (and various other LOCATIONS); billbateman.com

$$ P 10pm L D

This sports bar-qua-college pub is famous for making more styles of wings than Poland has kielbasas, but other menu highlights include its creamy soups, a superbly fresh California salad, and stand-out a grouper sandwich.

BLUESTONE

11 W. Aylesbury Road, Timonium, (410) 561-1100, bluestoneonline.net

$$$ P Out L D Br

Though it looks cookie-cutter suburban chain, Bluestone is a dependably above-average destination for fresh, well-executed seafood. Fried green tomatoes with lump crab and the Bluestone salad with pecans are excellent apps.

CAFÉ TROIA

31 Allegheny Ave., Towson, (410) 337-0133, cafetroia.com

$$$ Vg Out L D Rsv

Serious Italian cuisine in the suburbs, thanks to this long-lived (and recently expanded) family restaurant, and not just red sauce and so on. Two words: risotto menu.

GRILLED CHEESE & CO.

500 Edmondson Ave., Catonsville, (410) 747-2610, ilovegrilledcheese.com

$ P Out L D

Who but the lactose-intolerant among us doesn’t love a grilled cheese sandwich? You can order up “the original” here, as well as 10 schmancied-up variations. Also: tomato soup.

INDIAN DELIGHT

622 Frederick Road, Catonsville, (410) 744-4422, tajrestaurant.com

$$ P L D

Festooned with Indian print cloths and Taj Mahal photos to obscure its strip-center surroundings, Indian Delight is predictable in its selection of staples but never disappointing in its flavors.

KYODAI

1 W. Pennsylvania Ave., Towson, (410) 339-7500

$$ L D

The rotating self-serve sushi bar is pure instant gratification (you’re eating within seconds of sitting down) and the chief reason to go. There are few flaws with the sushi, and some of the chef’s special rolls are superfine.

LINWOODS

25 Crossroads Drive, Owings Mills, (410) 356-3030

$$$ Out L D

Recent renovations have restored the shimmering suburban glamour to this well-tended classic. Sit at the grill line and watch a stunning seafood sampler, a heartwarming tomato tart, and a breathtaking Delmonico steak emerge.

MARI LUNA LATIN GRILLE

1010 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 653-5151, mariluna.com

$$$ P Out L D Br Rsv

Chef/owner Jaime Luna has taken everything that worked at Mari Luna Mexican Grill and made it more sophisticated, but no less comfortable. Pan-Latin cuisine, with dishes from Cuba to Argentina, attentive service, and a chic dining room.

MARI LUNA MEXICAN GRILL

102 Reisterstown Road, Pikesville, (410) 486-9910, mariluna.com

$$$ P Out L D Br Rsv

Reasonable prices and generously portioned, authentic Mexican food keeps folks coming back. Service is as warm as the restaurant’s sunshine-colored walls.

SUBURBAN HOUSE

911 Reisterstown Road, (410) 484-7775, suburbanhousedeli.com

$$ P B L D

Suburban House is the place to get your arteries clogged. Even potentially healthy items like beet and potato borscht come with a sour cream side. Bring on the fried potato pancakes, the cheese blintzes, and the heaped-high Reubens.

Eat 2011 Contents
  • Pleased? Eat: City Paper's Annual Dining Guide | 3/2/2011
  • Federal Hill ABBEY BURGER BISTRO 1041 Marshall St., (443) 453-9698, abbeyburgerbistro.com $$ 10pm L D A bar devoted to gourmet burgers, not French fare. And we’re grateful, because who wouldn’t savor local Roseda beef topped with a drippy fried egg (or foie gra | 3/2/2011
  • South Baltimore BARRACUDAS: A LOCUST POINT TAVERN 1230 E. Fort Ave., (410) 685-2832, cudabarracuda.com $$ L D Br This small Locust Point neighborhood spot serves pubby standards with a few beachy twists (jerk chicken salad) and some serious local flavor (coddies). | 3/2/2011
  • Canton/Highlandtown ACROPOLIS 4714-4718 Eastern Ave., (410) 675-3384, acropolisbaltimore.com $$ L D There’s hearty and wholesome fare for Olympian appetites at this casual and cavernous Greektown mainstay. Lamb, seafood, and crab cakes are the house specialties, and al | 3/2/2011
  • Fells Point ALE MARY’S 1939 Fleet St., (410) 276-2044, alemarys.com $$ Out 10pm L D Br You can get tater tots as an appetizer or alongside any of the well-crafted sandwiches in various states of loaded-ness. The menu ranges from bar food standards to more ambi | 3/2/2011
  • Little Italy ALDO’S 306 S. High St., (410) 727-0700, aldositaly.com $$$ Vg d Rsv This Little Italy gem assembles choice ingredients in flawless preparations, nimbly negotiating the terrain between respectfulness for old-world tradition and mindfulness of contem | 3/2/2011
  • Harbor East BAGBY PIZZA CO. 1006 Fleet St., (410) 605-0444, bagbypizza.com $$ Out L D Bagby is the pizza place you wish was in your own neighborhood. Pie crusts are cracker thin, pastas and salads are homemade and generous, and service aims to please. CHARL | 3/2/2011
  • Downtown ALEWIFE 21 N. Eutaw, (410) 545-5112, alewifebaltimore.com $$ L D Alewife’s biggest draw may be its 40 beer taps, but the newest pub to fill the space across from the Hippodrome offers decent gourmet sandwiches and entrees too. Look for various in-ho | 3/2/2011
  • Mount Vernon/Bolton Hill/Station North ABACROMBIE FINE FOODS AND ACCOMMODATIONS 58 W. Biddle St., (410) 837-3630, abacrombie.net $$$ D B Rsv This basement spot has long held a culinary reputation that dwarfs its intimate size. It’s current menu of care-taken upscale comfort foods uphold | 3/2/2011
  • Charles Village/Waverly ALIZÉE 4 W. University Pkwy, (443) 449-6200, alizeebaltimore.com $$$ P Vg B L D Br Alizée has gone from fusion to high-concept comfort food. The menu changes seasonally, but look for bistro-inspired fare—roasted chicken, lamb confit, rabbit—all done | 3/2/2011
  • Roland Park/Mount Washington ALONSO’S 415 W. Cold Spring Lane, (410) 235-3433, alonsos.com $$ L D There’s been an upscale revamping and the pizzas have been gussied up. The immense burgers, though, are still here. BANSKY’S Cafe Lake Falls Village, 6080 Falls Road, (410) 377 | 3/2/2011
  • Hampden/Remington 13.5 WINE BAR 1117 W. 36th St., (410) 889–1064, 13.5winebar.com $$ Out 10pm D The Avenue gets a very well done wine list, along with a very well-turned-out menu of gourmet nibbles, pizzas, and entrees. ALCHEMY 1011 W. 36th St., (410) 366-1163, a | 3/2/2011
  • Belvedere Square ATWATER’S Belvedere Square Market 529 E. Belvedere Ave., (410) 323-2396 (and various other locations); atwaters.biz $ P Out L D It sells home-style breads and tasty sandwiches at its multiple locations (and the cream puffs at the Belvedere Square ba | 3/2/2011
  • Hamilton BIG BAD WOLF’S HOUSE OF BARBECUE 5713 Harford Road, (410) 444-6422 $$ Out L D Hamilton carry-out joint dispenses tender animal parts in classic regional sauces—Kansas City sweet and spicy, Carolina mustard or vinegar, and Texas pit style, our favor | 3/2/2011
  • County ANDY NELSON’S BARBEQUE 11011 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-1226, andynelsonsbbq.com $$ P Out L D Everything is slow-smoked over hickory wood. Ribs are a must-eat, the pulled-pork sandwich is orgasmic, and all the homemade sides are fantastic. W | 3/2/2011
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