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Eat Special Issue

Canton/Highlandtown

Acropolis, Blue Hill Tavern, The Dog Bar, and more

Photo: Christopher Meyers, License: N/A

Christopher Meyers

Eichenkranz Restaurant


Acropolis

4718 Eastern Ave., (410) 675-3384, acropolisbaltimore.com

$$, L, D

There’s hearty and wholesome fare for Olympian appetites at this casual and cavernous Greektown mainstay. Lamb, seafood, and crab cakes are the house specialties, and all of the ancient favorites are on tap.

Annabel Lee Tavern

601 S. Clinton St., (410) 522-2929, annabelleetavern.com

$$, D , Out, 10 p.m.

This small Poe-themed bar/restaurant’s upscale comfort food—duck-fat fries, Kobe beef sliders (a special)—is particularly tasty. The specials menu features interesting items at reasonable prices, and the bar feels like a neighborhood hangout.

Bistro Rx

2901 E. Baltimore St., (410) 276-0820, bistrorx.net

$$, D, Br, R, Out, 10 p.m.

This Patterson Park neighborhood joint offers a creative take on pub grub and a serious wine list for what ails ya. Lunch served on Saturdays.

Blue Hill Tavern

938 S. Conkling St., (443) 388-9363, bluehilltavern.com

$$$, L, D, R, v, Out

Blue Hill Tavern lights up Conkling Street with its clubby atmosphere and inventive food, like oxtail gnocchi with lemon cream and mint and Scottish salmon with harrisa green lentils and honey curry cream fréiche.

Bo Brooks

2780 Lighthouse Point, (410) 558-0202, bobrooks.com

$$$, L, D, Out

True fact: Steamed crabs taste better when eaten with a water view. Bo Brooks offers reliably large, meaty crustaceans at a primo waterfront location with stellar harbor views. The crabs in all forms are always excellent here.

Canton Dockside Crab

3301 Boston St., (410) 276-8900, cantondockside.com

$$$, L, D, Out

Not the homey little shack implied in the name, but a fairly schmancy restaurant that specializes in steamed crabs.

Captain James Crabhouse and Restaurant

2127 Boston St., (410) 327-8600, captainjameslanding.com

$$$, B, L, D, Out, 10 p.m.

The belly-swelling portions make the $20-plus entrées worth every penny. What remains of your crab-stuffed flounder with asparagus, giant lobster tails, or New York strip will still be delicious at home. There’s a less-rarefied open-all-night carryout side too. Also, it’s shaped like a ship. The whole building.

Claddagh Pub

2918 O’Donnell St., (410) 522-4220, claddaghonline.com

$$$, L, D, Br, Out, 10 p.m.

Standard bar food, including remarkably good wings, for the drinkers upstairs, with more genteel food such as rack of lamb and steaks if you’re sitting downstairs. The real secret here is its very good brunch.

The Dog Bar

2938 O’Donnell St.

$, L, D

No, this isn’t one of those pet-friendly pubs. But if you’re looking for a hot dog slathered with toppings both ordinary and not, Dog Bar’s got you covered. Open for a while after last call on Friday and Saturday nights.

Eichenkranz Restaurant

611 S. Fagley St., (410) 563-7577, eichenkranz.com

$$, B, L, D

Here are schnitzel and wurst for Haussner’s refugees, but also twists on international fare, like zucchini in tempura. Nightly specials are eye-popping full dinners at $7.50 or less.

Fins on the Square

2903 O’Donnell St., (410) 675-1880, finsonthesquare.com

$$$, L, D, Br, Out

A little bit of Margaritaville in Canton, this tropical-themed bar and grill serves up pub grub with a special bent toward seafood.

Gecko’s

2318 Fleet St., (410) 732-1961, geckosonline.com

$$, L, D, P, 10 p.m.

Gecko’s serves surprisingly good Southwestern cuisine in cheerful Santa Fe-influenced surroundings. The food tastes fresh and wholesome, and there are good selections for vegetarians.

Ikaros

4805 Eastern Ave., (410) 633-3750, ikarosrestaurant.com

$$, L, D, R

Greektown’s Old Faithful still packs ’em in. The basics—Greek salad, stuffed grape leaves, tender braised lamb, moussaka—can’t go wrong. Save room for baklava.

Langermann’s

2400 Boston St., (410) 534-3287, langermanns.com

$$$, L, D, Br , P, Out

“Southern. Inspired.” is Langermann’s motto, and it shows in many of the dishes, from the biscuits and cornbread to appetizers such as fried green tomatoes and catfish fingers. Skip the crab cakes in favor of savory shrimp and grits.

Looney’s Pub

2900 O’Donnell St., (410) 675-9235, looneyspubmd.com

$$, L, D, Br, Out, 10 p.m.

Homey Looney’s is relatively cheap, it has good food and beer, and you can catch a baseball game, a football game, or whatever sport is in season on one of the TVs. The crab cakes outstrip the usual pub-grub versions.

Mama’s on the Half Shell

2901 O’Donnell St., (410) 276-3160

$$$, L, D, Br, Out, 10p.m.

The Canton eatery succeeds through modesty; you can order your fish fried and not feel like a rube. Oysters come grilled, fried, on the half shell, on horseback, and in shooters, and they must really have aphrodisiacal qualities, because we love this place.

Matthew’s Pizza

3131 Eastern Ave., (410) 276-8755, matthewspizza.com

$, L, D

Matthew’s legendary thick-crust pizza is crispy on the bottom and doughy all the way up to the choice toppings. It fills you up real quick. Highlandtown ambiance and cheerful service. It’s location across the street from the Creative Alliance makes it perfect for pre-event ’za.

Morning Edition Café

153 N. Patterson Park Ave., (410) 732-5133

$$, B, Br, l

Elaborately conceived Benedicts, omelets, French toast, and pancakes tempt at this venerable old Vermont-style breakfast/brunch-only spot, though the wait can be bafflingly long. Weekends only.

Nacho Mama’s

2907 O’Donnell St., (410) 675-0898, nachomamascanton.com

$$, L, D , 10 p.m.

A divey, kitschy joint that serves tortilla chips in a hub cap, Nacho Mama’s is a Canton institution that combines a shrine to Elvis and walls covered with Natty Boh paraphernalia with messy Mexican food and a touch of Cajun flavor.

Portside Tavern

2821 O’Donnell St., (410) 522-7678, portsidetavern.com

$, D, Br, Out, 10p.m.

Pizzas and burgers headline a pub-grub menu. Appetizers come off well, soups even better.

Red House Tavern

2239 Essex St., (410) 522-0015, facebook.com/redhousetavern

$$, D

Red House Tavern offers a menu featuring both straight-ahead bar food (wings, burgers made with Roseda beef, fries dusted with Old Bay, all good) and ambitious fare. The former end of the fare and the friendly service makes all the difference.

Rosina Gourmet

2819 O’Donnell St., (410) 675-9300, rosinagourmet.com

$, B, L

This charming Canton lunch spot offers familiar-sounding sandwiches—from the smoked turkey to the tuna melt—dressed in fancier duds: Jarslberg cheese and basil pesto mayo on focaccia for the turkey, artichoke hearts and oregano on wheat roll for the tuna.

Saute

2844 Hudson St., (410) 327-2883, sauteofbaltimore.com

$$$, L, D, Br, R, Out

A handsome neighborhood place trying to serve up some quality food without being pretentious or elitist and doing a good job of it. The usual suspects get welcome twists and tweaks (e.g. pulled duck nachos). Lunch served weekends only.

Speakeasy Saloon and Dining House

2840 O’Donnell St., (410) 276-2977, speakeasysaloon.com

$$, L, D, Br, Out, 10 p.m.

A handsome bar/restaurant offering an ambitious menu of pubby staples and big-deal entrées (rack of lamb) with a beguiling Greek influence throughout.

Yellow Dog Tavern

700 S. Potomac St., (410) 342-0280

$$, br, D, Out

This enterprising spot does its best work with meat: a perfect espresso-rubbed flat-iron steak, braised short ribs. The bar downstairs offers hamburgers, beer-battered onion rings, and sports on TV.

Eat 2012 Contents
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