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Toss: A Gourmet Pizzeria

Photo: Lee Gardner, License: N/A

Lee Gardner

Toss: A Gourmet Pizzeria

5716 York Road, (410) 433-8677,

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Toss nestles so thoroughly into an unpromising strip of businesses a few blocks south of Belvedere Square that we drove right by it several times while looking for it. (Next time, guys, go for the overstated logo.) Once inside the functional but surprisingly sleek storefront space, we grabbed a copy of the compact menu (pizza, salads, sandwiches, pasta), seated ourselves at a table, and found ourselves a find. A small spinach and artichoke pizza ($12) was billed as a 10-inch but looked more like a 12-inch and could easily have fed two. The dough was sweet and flaky, almost pastry-like, and thick; the zesty garlic sauce banished any white-pizza borderline blandness; the artichokes and tomatoes seemed really fresh. Also, feta = yum. A Roma sandwich ($7.50) combined salty salami and pepperoni with provolone, tomatoes, ample mixed greens, and a seriously addictive balsamic vinaigrette on a crusty ciabatta-style round. The “Mediterranean fries”—crusty potato wedges—were way overcooked and strangely bland, but at least a novel change from the usual food-service mealiness. The pizza crust and the sandwich roll alone outshone their immediate carryout/delivery brethren. Toss isn’t likely to make the slow-food types in Belvedere Square lose any sleep, but the cheap-eat options in the north end of town just got a lot better.

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