Cheap Eats
Tijuana Tacos
Michael Byrne
Published: April 27, 2011
Ah, the mild discomfort and excited anticipation of waiting for food in a dining space that feels like it doubles as a gathering place for the restaurant owner’s family more than half the time. And with the sounds of various things sizzling behind a porta-wall—chicken and marinated pork, green enchilada sauce, corn tortillas—on a recent weekday afternoon, we were certainly hanging around during that family time. We’d tutor the Tijuana Tacos family’s kids if it kept us in food this good. A chicken taco proves the sole weak link: Papered with shredded cilantro, the meat came off as a mite dry and chewy and could’ve used some crumbles of queso fresco (though the to-go cups of what must be house-made red and green salsa could save a fillet of bark). A marinated pork taco straight owns, a mixture of well-spiced, almost sweet meat and some sort of chutney-ish thing, again unadorned save for cilantro. A pair of chicken enchiladas is as indulgent as anything, oversized and overfull of just-charred chicken shreds and melted white cheese and then topped with what feels like nearly a pint of green enchilada sauce, hitting the back of the tongue with just the right amount of sour tang. Delicious.
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