Cheap Eats
The Land of Kush
Wynter Towns
Published: April 13, 2011
How can food this “good for you” taste this good too? Vegan soul food is the specialty at this sharp new storefront spot conveniently located between the state office complex and Maryland General. None but the most dogged aficionados will miss the tang of turkey neckbone in the smoked collard greens ($2.99 small, $3.99 medium, or available as a side with platters), or daresay even actual pork in the BBQ ribs ($4.99 small, $7.99 medium, $9.99 for a platter with two sides), hunks of savory vegetal goodness that approximate the texture and taste of falling-off-the-bone swine, smothered in a heat-packing sweet sauce with hunks of potato and green and red pepper. The veggie mac and “cheese” ($2.99 small, $3.99 medium, or available as a side) doesn’t look like much, but it provides plenty of comfort-food satisfaction. It’s the live kale salad ($2.99 small, $3.99 medium, or available as part of a platter) that really slays though: a bouquet of fresh greens slathered in a garlick-y sauce that almost demands greedy gobbling. Wash it all down with tart house-made sorrel drink ($2.49) and your body will thank you in all sorts of ways.
> Email Lee Gardner
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