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Cheap Eats

The Chicken King

301 S. Highland Ave., (410) 558-0339

Photo: Athena Towery, License: N/A

Athena Towery

We were really looking forward to Highlandtown’s Chicken King. We salivated while reading their menu, with Honduras, El Salvadore, Peru, and Mexico all represented. It was probably an inevitable letdown. Maybe it was the fact they’d just had a leak and all the furniture was stacked to the ceiling, but the food was simply mediocre. The Peruvian-style rotisserie chicken (quarter chicken, $5.95) was small but cooked well enough. The yucca that came with it was flaky and tasty. The simple baliadas ($2.50) was ample with nicely spiced refritos and a generous dollop of sour cream. This was probably the least disappointing part of our meal. The fried plantains ($2) were deep-fried, which was something of a surprise, lacking all the caramelization one would expect of a fried plantain. We also tried the corn tamal ($2.50), which was—although flavorful—really dry. We kept having to drink copious amounts of water to wash it down. Lastly, we were greeted by a generous heap of flan ($2). The portion was astounding, definitely enough for sharing. But again, it lacked any sort of caramelization. What do they have against burnt sugar? The flan sort of defined our experience at the Chicken King. We wouldn’t send it back, but it was just OK. We just weren’t wowed. Sigh.

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