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Night of the Cookers Carry-out

Photo: , License: N/A, Created: 2011:03:10 05:19:33

Wendy Ward


Night of the Cookers Carry-out

885 N. Howard St., (410) 383-2095, nightofthecookers.com

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This takeout lunch spot next door to the on-again, off-again (now off) nightclub and restaurant of the same name offers spicy soul food like your momma made if your momma had never heard of the word “diet.” A flavorful handmade veggie soup ($3.95 a cup) featured a rich broth, a nice variety of veggies, and a bit of legume. The fried whitefish sandwich ($6.95) came on buttery soft and dense coco bread (think large dinner roll) with just a leaf of green lettuce. The generous portion of flaky fish was hand-breaded with spicy cornmeal and lightly fried, needing just a hit of hot sauce; likewise for the more fishy-tasting catfish fingers ($9.95 with two sides). Mac and cheese is delicious, both peppery and cheddar-y, with browned top bits along with gooey noodles, while the twice-baked yams with cinnamon, nutmeg, vanilla, and marshmallows deserve a pie crust, they are so sweet. An incredibly filling curried chicken ($7.95 with two sides) is fall-off-the-bone tender—in fact, watch for the bone hunks floating around the oily spiced curry and carrot slices served on creamy pumpkin rice with a buttery cabbage medley on the side. Just count the hours before you are hungry again after this food, although thirsty hits right away.

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