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Cheap Eats

Linden Deli

Photo: Michael Byrne, License: N/A

Michael Byrne


Linden Deli

899 N. Howard St., 410-669-9104

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One day last week we consumed for lunch these items, each in small quantities: mac and cheese, kimchee, Chinese hot wings, a barbecue rib, vegetable lo mein, and a corn biscuit. These are all things found in the buffet/salad bar at the new Linden Deli, a rather typical fried stuff/sandwich place on one hand, but, on the other, boasting a terrifically bizarre food-by-weight situation ($7.83 for all of that, with drink). Damnedest thing: The food tasted pretty good (though we avoided the sicklier looking/been-sittin’ items). The mac was oily and that kind of decadent that portends an afternoon of guilt; the wings were just a bit spicy and flavorful enough; the rib was tender and doused in something supersweet and just a little spicy. The kimchee, however, was suspicious in a way that’s hard to articulate, warm and weird, but not the right kind of kimchee weird. Next time we’ll try to aim for lunch prime time and see about that buffet in a more pristine state. (Michael Byrne)

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