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Kirkwood Pit Beef

6220 Baltimore National Pike, Catonsville, (410) 744-9955

Photo: Lee Gardner, License: N/A, Created: 2010:11:21 01:52:05

Lee Gardner

Kirkwood Pit Beef

6220 Baltimore National Pike, Catonsville, (410) 744-9955

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A need for lunch during weekend errands in the county led to an impromptu stop at this strip-center storefront on Route 40, seemingly just another of the dozens of nondescript pit beef places located right off a 695 exit. Not so, as we found once we unpacked a pair of medium sandwiches ($5.99; large $6.99). True, they were almost exactly like all pit beef sandwiches everywhere—beef slow cooked to medium doneness with little notable smoke flavor or seasoning, sliced thin and piled atop a fluffy white roll, and juiced up with a slash of tiger sauce—but they proved most excellent examples of the form. The fries ($3.99 for a large order to share) put Kirkwood over though, as salty as the beef wasn’t and wonderfully crisp, not steamed into mush by their own bagged steam like so many carryout fries. Two large fountain sodas ($2.00 a piece) washed it all down, and we were refueled and ready to go. We will remember Kirkwood’s name and location, and we can’t always say that.

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