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Hungry Andy’s

Photo: Tim Hill, License: N/A, Created: 2011:08:12 14:11:17

Tim Hill


Hungry Andy’s

629 S. Broadway, (410) 558-1869, hungryandys.com

More at weekly.citypaper.com

For every new high-concept restaurant that opens in Baltimore, there has to be a corresponding new corner grill, just to keep our historic low-brow equilibrium from sliding too far to the bourgeois boho realm. And sometimes we get a Hungry Andy’s, a new sub/sandwich/barbecue joint in Fells Point that applies the fresh and homemade trend (odd to call that bourgeois, yes?) to the old staples. Take the coleslaw, which most sandwich shops place zero emphasis on—it just comes out of a food-service tub and sloshes around in your Styrofoam box. Andy’s slaw is just plain good—house-made, sweet, a little tangy, and fresh. We were a little disappointed in the fried sides, however. The fried green banana chips ($3.54) and fried string beans ($4.48) were okay, but the batter needed some oomph, some spiciness, and possibly something interesting to dip into besides ketchup. The fresh-cut fries that came with the lunch special ($6.60) were pretty good, but again, they just needed something. But never mind that. The meats. Yes, the ribs were fantastic—messy, super tender, and big. For $6.60, you get the slabs along with the aforementioned slaw and a dinner roll. The pulled-beef sandwich that came with the lunch special was also great—tender, dense, and slathered in just enough sauce. Hungry Andy’s does its own smoking, so we’ll be back to try the pit beef and the barbecued stuff that’s all over the menu.

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