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Heidi's Brooklyn Deli

Photo: , License: N/A, Created: 2010:12:26 21:22:45

Mel Guapo


Heidi's Brooklyn Deli

3 N. Eutaw St., (410) 800-2453, heidisbrooklyndeli.com

Read more at weekly.citypaper.com

The first and only franchise of a New York-based chain to open in Maryland, Heidi’s has been down the road for six months without us getting around to a visit. It’s going for an old-fashioned Italian deli feel—the menu lists a prosciutto sandwich ($8.99) “just like Thoity Thoid street”—but with a large and erratic menu, it’s way off the mark. (Take note: It shares a space with its sister store Sisters Pizza and Mussels, which we didn’t get to try.) A country Dijon egg salad sandwich on an Italian hoagie ($6.49 for a sizable serving), with lettuce and tomato but missing the American cheese we ordered, greatly disappointed with the nonexistent flavor of both the egg salad and the bread; the strongest noticeable flavor came from a sprinkle of pepper. The Cajun turkey sandwich with avocado on wheat, served with lettuce and tomato but sans avocado (Heidi’s was out), was an improvement. The “Cajun” part comes from an aioli spread that adds a nice flavor, but the bread (baked “from scratch, on site fresh!”) was too thick and chewy and the turkey was, somehow, greasy. Sean, the kind young guy serving as the new chef, will ask for your name and enthusiastically tell you about all his new plans for the place: beer, wine, and cocktails; a Friday Lobster night; and loads of new Italian dishes next door. We really want to root for him, and maybe the place will turn around under his care. Perhaps Heidi’s should focus less on expanding its menu and more on improving what it has.

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