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Harbor East Delicatessen and Pizzeria

1006 Aliceanna St., (410) 244-6156,

Photo: Tim Hill, License: N/A, Created: 2010:12:09 01:11:22

Tim Hill

Harbor East Delicatessen and Pizzeria

1006 Aliceanna St., (410) 244-6156,

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When you find yourself wandering the cold-faced canyons of that alternate Baltimore called Harbor East, and your wallet leans more deep-fried than foie gras, this is where you go. Located in the former Elevation Burger spot, and with an approach that couldn’t be more antithetical to that defunct purveyor of gourmet/grass-fed/greenstuff, Harbor East Delicatessen cranks out the heart-punching, gut-warming fare you’d more expect at a chrome-covered diner near the beltway. We ordered a plate of Old Bay-dusted chicken wings ($8.99); a cup of minestrone soup ($2.99); a Legg Mason sandwich consisting of turkey, guacamole, and bacon on plain ol’ wheat bread ($7.99); and a chicken Parmesan sub special ($8.99 with fries and a fountain soda), and chowed down. Nothing lit up our palates or got a satisfying grunt, but it was all the sort of decent diner food that keeps a steady stream of customers rolling through door. And that’s enough. Bonus points for selling draft beer.

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