Published: May 11, 2011
611 S. Fagley St., (410) 563-7577, eichenkranz.com
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Baltimore’s German-food scene took a serious hit when Haussner’s Restaurant closed in 1999, leaving only Eichenkranz Restaurant to sate the people’s taste for hasenpfeffer. Eichenkranz is surely good for dinner, with its full array of schnitzels and the like, but what about a quick lunch, old Highlandtown-style? The herring fillet with sour cream ($4.50) came with seven tasty chunks resting on a bed of iceberg lettuce, ringing a small pile of pickled onions. If you’re thinking, Whoa, too fishy, you’d be wrong; it was delicious, tender, and sweetly vinegary, not overpowering at all. The knockwurst and sauerkraut ($7.50), served with your choice of mustards (hot is about right), hit the spot too. An old-style restaurant atmosphere, with white tablecloths, green cloth napkins, stemmed water glasses, and a tasteful paper rose in a white vase, is complemented by efficient, friendly service. In and out in 25 minutes, and a $12.72 bill with a note on the back: “Thanks! Have a Great Day! Betty.” The smiley face was die Kirsche on top. Next up, back for breakfast.
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