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Buckhorn Family Restaurant

5501 O'Donnell Street Cutoff, (410) 633-4611

Photo: Van Smith, License: N/A, Created: 2011:01:28 12:18:59

Van Smith

Buckhorn Family Restaurant

5501 O’Donnell Street Cutoff, (410) 633-4611

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“I’m a cracker,” a departing patron of Buckhorn Family Restaurant says. “I can ride a horse and crack a whip.” Clearly, that fella ain’t from around here. Neither are most of Buckhorn’s patrons, based on a recent visit to the place, which is inside the TA Travel Center in far East Baltimore, next to I-95’s O’Donnell Street exit. That’s because it caters to an ever-changing crew of peripatetic, four-wheeler-hating truckers, with accents as diverse as those one would hear at a Vegas casino. It’s part of a restaurant chain run by a truck-stop chain, TA Travel Centers of America, but the servers are local, as are Buckhorn’s many antique-y Baltimore photographs on the walls. As for the food, well, it’s about what you’d expect: not half bad, and pretty cheap. The menu is printed on newsprint, and boasts an array of standard diner fare for breakfast, lunch, and dinner—and everything is all you can eat. The All-American hamburger ($7.79) was topped with lettuce, tomato, onion, and cheese, and came with fries; and the “homemade” chili ($4.99), which came with garlic bread, was a little tepid temperature-wise, but it had the right heat, and floating atop were shredded cheddar and fresh, diced tomatoes and onions. The bottomless cup of lemonade ($2.09) may have been water added to powder, but it hit the spot. We’ll be back for breakfast—and maybe then, unlike on this visit, a dark-haired young woman who’d been loitering in the Travel Center’s halls won’t saunter up to the table and ask, “By any chance are you going 95 South?”

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