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Bon Fresco

Even if Bon Fresco requires us to navigate Columbia’s sprawl, we’ll be back

Photo: Jenn Ladd, License: N/A

Jenn Ladd

Bon Fresco

6945 Oakland Mills Road, Columbia, (410) 290-3434

We were in Columbia—which we usually find miserable, with its abundant speed cameras and confusing traffic signals—around lunchtime when we looked up this sandwich shop, located in one of the suburb’s many bland brick strip malls. Though cheerless on the outside, Bon Fresco has a quite pleasant interior, reminiscent of a Panera, and its smiling staff was some of the friendliest and most efficient counter service we’ve experienced in a while. The Italian-deli-influenced menu (lots of ciabatta and focaccia) also incorporates Middle Eastern fare like tapenade and Israeli couscous. Though we wish we had tried the London broil sandwich—the special option was printed on a piece of paper near the register, par for the course for Columbia signage—we had no quibbles with the roasted turkey breast platter ($6.95) that we ordered. Juicy slices of turkey breast were heaped on a bed of dressed greens in a plastic to-go bowl. Hunks of fresh mozzarella, a sizable scoop of fresh hummus, tapenade, and green lentils were shored up on another side of the container. It was an odd presentation perhaps, served with a large, circular piece of ciabatta (some of the best we’ve ever had) perfect for tearing and scooping. Even if Bon Fresco requires us to navigate Columbia’s sprawl, we’ll be back.

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