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Baltimore Burger Bar

Photo: Andrea Appleton, License: N/A, Created: 2011:06:20 18:46:22

Andrea Appleton

Baltimore Burger Bar

830 W. 36th St., (410) 878-1266

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The Baltimore Burger Bar, which opened in May in the former Puffs and Pastries space in Hampden, has yet to kick its growing pains. Its hours are erratic—for best results, go before 5 p.m.—and between ordering and waiting, it was a good half-hour before we were served. Also, not a particularly cheap eat. (The menu listed no prices, and we were so busy salivating we ordered without asking.) But the food? Frickin’ exquisite. The burgers—a veggie, a beef, and an “exotic”—change weekly, as do the swanky toppings. We had a rabbit confit burger with sharp cheddar, wild mushroom duxelle, and roasted garlic mayo, plus two sides: three-potato salad with soy miso dressing and roasted balsamic Brussels sprouts with shallots, as well as a drink. (The total was a whopping $21.20, but would have been $15 if we’d chosen beef over bunny—though the prices are a bit erratic themselves.) The burger, served on a buttery toasted bun, was a rich oozy delight, a gourmet gutbomb. The potato salad was tangy and complex, and the shallots added a smoky sweetness to the Brussels sprouts. (A paper boat with generous portions of two sides—a meal by itself—is $7.40.) Now if only all this tastiness was available after sunset. . .

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