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Dining

Best Western Fries

Attman’s

1019 E. Lombard St., (410) 563-2666, attmansdeli.com

How the Western fry became a staple in Jewish delis is a story for another time, but the ones at Attman’s possess a few qualities that the runners-up lack. Take, for instance, the ubiquitous Royal Farms western fry: very good, but too much batter and often a mealy, powdery potato interior, a veritable embodiment of all flash, no substance. The fries at Attman’s also feature a beautifully even coating of batter, but this surrounds a stout potato soul, which, despite its sizable girth, is always perfectly cooked—tender, moist, and breaks open like a York Peppermint Pattie. Try it—you’ll see what we mean.

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