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Baltimore Dining

Best Upscale Restaurant

Woodberry Kitchen

2010 Clipper Park Road, (410) 464-8000,

Under ordinary circumstances, it wouldn’t be surprising if Woodberry Kitchen’s luster had dimmed, if its popularity had cooled, if it had lost half a step. You can only be the hot new thing for so long. But among the many benefits of a rigorous farm-to-table concept—at least in Spike Gjerde’s hands—is that the surprises keep coming. We look forward to each and every opportunity to see what’s on the menu, be it an exquisite preparation of some staple (chicken in its many forms) or something (or some part of something) we’ve never tried (e.g., half a hog’s head, its dusky, sumptuously flavorful meat draped in luscious fat) or just another round of the various small-plate “snacks” that start things off (and threaten to supplant the apps). The food is special without being fussy, which goes for the service and the vibe in the buzzing dining room and on the patio too. Woodberry Kitchen still feels like the place to be, and it’s definitely still the place to eat.

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