Baltimore Dining
Best Soul Food
Darker Than Blue cafe
Published: September 21, 2011
3034 Greenmount Ave., (443) 872-4468, darkerthanbluecafe.com
Darker Than Blue blends soul food and fine dining with jazz and blues (the name comes from a Curtis Mayfield song). The lunch and dinner menus are full of tasty offerings—from crab cakes to chicken and waffles to salmon cakes on grits—but the soul in this soul food comes out at Sunday brunch. “Brunch” is almost the wrong word. Darker Than Blue’s buffet is more like a down-home Sunday dinner, that sacred after-church midday meal that’s too big to call lunch. Chef Casey Jenkins’ sublime fried chicken, greens, sweet potatoes, grilled salmon, and mac ‘n’ cheese would make anybody’s grandma proud. The jazz combo in the corner makes it even easier to keep going back for seconds . . . and thirds and fourths. But beware: All this salty food will make you thirsty. In true Sunday style, Darker Than Blue primarily serves iced tea. If you are accustomed to something stronger, you can bring your own, but unlike those after-church dinners, you won’t have to slip off to the bathroom to drink it.
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