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Best Place to Dine on the Swine

Andy Nelson’s Barbecue

11011 York Road, Cockeysville, (410) 527-0646,

We try. Lord knows we try. We try every barbecue place we stumble across, hoping for a score. We end up eating some decent ‘cue, and we end up eating a shameful amount with so little smoke flavor that it can’t ever have spent significant time any nearer to smoldering wood than being downwind of the farmhouse chimney. But we’ve found no barbecue in Baltimore or the surrounding counties that measures up to Andy Nelson’s tangy pulled pork and obscenely succulent ribs. The search continues.

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