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Dining

Best Pit Beef

Harborque

1421 Lawrence St., (410) 685-7675, harborque.com

Some may find it ironic, even blasphemous, that a Carolina-style slow-cook barbecue joint would get best pit beef. Pit beef is sometimes called Baltimore’s barbecue, yes, but pit beef is cooked directly over coals and is, well, beef, while Harborque specializes in pork smoked with hickory and red oak. Etymological debates aside, the beef here is always perfectly tender, moist, and bountiful on a just-sturdy-enough seeded bun (or white bread, if you choose). It has a deep pink smoke ring but is perfumed only slightly with smoke. Admittedly, it does lack a good crust, but sometimes they’ll seek you out some chewy end-piece or char it up on the grill for you.

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