Best New Restaurant
The Fork and Wrench
Published: September 19, 2012
2322 Boston St., theforkandwrench.com, (443) 759-9360
What a change from last year, when candidates for new restaurant were few and far between. This year’s crop includes restaurants from national and local celebrity chefs, more farm-to-table, more pizza, more gourmet burgers, more highly designed dining rooms. The Fork and Wrench is an amalgam of most of those trends, wrapped up in one very fine package. Diners are likely not to have the same experience twice here, based on Chef Sajin Renae’s frequently changing menu and owners Andy Gruver and Jason Sanchez’s warren of recreated tableaux dining and drinking spaces within the restaurant. Renae, who performed so brilliantly at Vino Rosina, continues to evolve and wow here, with clever takes on homey dishes like rabbit confit served with waffles or a chicken liver mousse that will have you licking your knife. If you’re beginning to tire of farm-to-table, you’ll be revived here and reminded why it was a good idea in the first place.