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Baltimore Dining

Best Mexican

Tortilleria Sinaloa

1716 Eastern Ave., (410) 276-3741,

So, no, you can’t pull up an oilcloth-covered four-top and suck down cervezas and fill up on the complimentary chips and salsa for a spell before the waiter brings your platters hot out of the oven. Tortilleria Sinaloa isn’t that kind of Mexican restaurant—it’s not a restaurant at all, really, just a storefront takeout with a handful of bar stools dotting a narrow counter that runs around two sides of the tiny entranceway. But the big silver machine behind the counter pumps out the fresh tortillas and the hustling staff bag them up to go for roll-your-own customers (it seems to do a bustling trade), fries them up as chips, or fills them with the most knee-weakeningly good taco fillings you’ll find (don’t miss the tacos el pastor if they’re on the specials list). There’s a lot more stuff on the small menu hanging over the counter, but when we bite into a Sinaloa taco (as we almost always do), we know we’re not missing anything anywhere else.

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