Published: September 21, 2011
1911 Aliceanna St., (410) 563-8008, darbarbaltimore.com
Darbar is a new addition to Baltimore’s lineup of Indian restaurants—though its owners are familiar, since they are also partners in an old standby, Mount Vernon’s Akbar. Darbar has taken roost in a location that’s proven troublesome for past restaurateurs; the Greek restaurant Opa! didn’t last, nor the Italian Ristorante Le Due Isole, nor Talay Thai Grille, which was the last to make a stab at it. But don’t write it off just because others have failed there. This is succulent, spicy, professionally presented Indian food, done up right by seasoned, friendly pros, so it’s bound to be around a while unless the space is, in fact, jinxed. The tandoori mixed grill is as good as it gets, and the chicken xacutti, curried with coconut, is a delicious novelty, but we’d slaughter a lamb ourselves just to get them to cook us up some of that adrak ke chaap, ginger-herbed tandoori baby lamb chops.