Published: September 21, 2011
814 S. Bond St., (410) 276-7141, theblackolive.com
This isn’t your standard spanikopita and gyro shop—though we love those too. This is Greek fine dining that’s simple yet sophisticated. The star here is whole fresh fish with subtle preparations that accentuate rather than cover the flavor. There are home-style dishes too, such as creamy taramasalata, cheese-stuffed grape leaves, hummus, and grilled octopus, and these are always a step above the expected. For a taste of both styles, try the grilled calamari stuffed with manouri and feta cheese. With the addition of an inn, a market, and the rooftop meat-focused Olive Room, the Spiliadis family is turning Black Olive into an empire, one we’ll always happily visit.