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Best Greek

Ikaros Restaurant

4805 Eastern Ave., (410) 633-3750,

Ikaros is the kind of restaurant you probably went to after prom if you graduated in the 1980s. It’s a bit down-at-the-heels—think frayed carpets and faded photos of the Parthenon—but the effect is somehow charming. The service is warm and the kindly mustachioed owner did many of the paintings on the walls himself. The appetizers are your best bet, especially the rich, filling moussaka and the addictive spinach and feta pie. Portions are enormous, and if an entrée includes feta, it’s likely to be an entire slab, not a few miserly crumbles. Desserts, such as the heavenly cream-filled galaktoboureko, are often on the house.

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