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Dining

Best Fish and Chips

JD’s Smokehouse

3000 O’Donnell St., (410) 675-4029

Good fish and chips aren’t easy to find, and we certainly didn’t expect to find them here. Why we ended up ordering these beautiful things amid an orgy of brisket and burgers we do not know, but they are freaking awesome. A perfectly uniform, honey-colored batter is equal parts crunchy and crispy with actual beer flavor—scratch that, actual good beer flavor, which the menu says comes from Yeungling. The fish is flaky but firm, moist, well-seasoned, and occupies the entire interior of the batter (no big hollow sections). The chips are decent waffle fries, and there are many sauces for dipping, but all of those things simply melt away when it’s just you and a perfect, um, fish, alone in the universe for a moment.

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