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Baltimore Dining

Best Dim Sum

Red Pearl

10215 Wincopin Circle, Columbia, (410) 715-6530,

There’s a perfectly good explanation for why there aren’t many decent Chinese restaurants in Baltimore: There are hardly any Chinese people here. In fact, Asians in general pulled the old urban-flight thing long ago, many of them ending up in Howard County. But it took until just a few years ago for decent dim sum options to appear in HoCo. Then one place went downhill, another never actually opened, and yet another closed up shop. But now there is Red Pearl, and long story short, it’s good. Cart-service dim sum happens on weekends, when the huge dining room is appropriately frenetic, but you can get an abbreviated selection off the menu any time. The choice is lavish and the quality outstanding, worthy of comparison to any of the go-to dim sum hotspots in Silver Spring or Wheaton. So yeah, Columbia is kind of a hike, but it’s only 20 minutes by car. It takes longer than that to get from Canton to Charles Village, so suck it up.

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