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Dining

Best Chinese

Grace Garden

1690 Annapolis Road, Odenton, gracegardenchinese.com, (410) 672-3581

Granted, Odenton is a little far to go for Chinese food—unless you happen to be joining the Army, in which case it’s right on the way to Fort Meade—but this is no ordinary Chinese take-out joint. Okay, it looks exactly like an ordinary Chinese take-out joint, situated as it is in a random strip mall, next to a take-out wings place. Even inside, you’ll find a fairly typical setup, with round plastic-covered tables and a counter to pick up orders. The first clue that you’re somewhere special is that there are two menus: the “western menu,” where you can waste time with General Tso and friends, and the “traditional Chinese menu,” which includes stuff like braised pork belly with mui-choy—oh my Tso, is that shit tasty—and the smoked tea duck, which you have to order three days in advance. Three days! Call before you leave the house for Odenton and it should be ready by the time you get there.

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