Cyrus Keefer, Fork & Wrench
Published: September 18, 2013
2322 Boston St., (443) 759-9360, theforkandwrench.com
Cyrus Keefer has bounced around from one restaurant to another, always with the promise that he would be able to cook his food the way he wanted. After a few moths, his masters would change their minds and have him flipping burgers to lower food costs. This is not the case at Fork & Wrench, where chef Keefer has been let loose to be as creative as he wants, with the promise that there will be no “burger bar” moments. Even when Keefer makes a burger, it’s on his own terms. The Wrench is a “burger” made up of two thickly sliced medallions of house-made paté that’s wrapped in bacon, finished on the grill, and placed on a brioche bun with havarti, house-cured pickles, lettuce, and a Thousand Island gribiche. The seriously satisfying dishes he turns out at F&W are among the most imaginative in the city, with preparations such as beef shortrib tortelli, oil-poached calamari, and roasted bone marrow.