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Baltimore Dining

Best Biscuits and Gravy

Marie Louise Bistro

904 N. Charles St., (410) 385-9946,

Biscuits and gravy have been popping up on brunch menus all over town. Marie Louise Bistro—Mount Vernon’s Parisian cafe—might not be the most obvious choice for such homey fare, but the bistro’s liberal use of sage adds flavor where sometimes there’s not much more than substance. That’s not to say this is a fancy version of a down-home dish. It’s as gut-busting and artery-clogging as any greasy spoon’s—maybe even more so. The sausage is evenly distributed throughout the gravy, instead of coming in a few heavy globs, and the airy yet crisp biscuits manage to hold up under the weight of the gluey concoction, providing a perfect base. This hearty brunch is one reason to look forward to the cold months to come.

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